Wednesday 17 September 2014

Gr8 Lakes of Kashmir----My encounter with Beauty Bliss and Nirvana----Day 7 : Rest Day Fun at Nandkol and Gangbal Twin Lakes (11500 ft)

AGAR FIRDAUS BAR RU-E-ZAMIN AST, HAMI AST O- HAMI AST O- HAMI AST.   


              IF THERE IS HEAVEN ON EARTH, IT IS HERE, IT IS HERE IT IS HERE.


When we reached to Nandkol and Gangbal twin lakes yesterday , it was hardly 2:30 or 3:00 pm . Suman had already declared the next day as rest day and we could also see the tents of earlier batch. Now a rest day on a week long Himalayan trek is a necessity if you encounter a bad weather in any of the days...the weather in the Himalayan treks is so fickle ,  the terrain difficult  and the trekking groups so heterogeneous in terms of age and experience that it makes sense to have a rest day so that the trek lead can plan accordingly.

Anyways, the prospect of not walking/ climbing the next day was so alluring and comforting that we instantly forgot the strain n pain of the days walk and set out exploring the area around campsite.Since nothing much was on our mind we were in very basic gear... me wearing chappals , santosh barefoot and none of us had any winter gear, head lamp or torch..


Initially the plan was to cross the overflow stream from the lake and go on the other side where the horses were grazing and to try our rock climbing skills on a solitary rock.....No photos available as we had gone there just like that.... Seeing that the rock climbing needs much much greater flexibility from our body than thought, all of us except Santosh backed out.....Our modern day Spiderman with a bit of help from Suman did manage to conquer the 15-20 feet rock and the joy on his face was to be seen to be believed...


After this mission,  I thought of doing a Parikrama  of Nandkol lake.Santosh readily agreed  but Aashish excused himself....we set out on a round trip thinking that it would not be more than 40-45min affair ....How wrong we were going to be...

The Lake is Massive-We started from extreme left of photo

We did inquire with our Horseman if the Parikrama is possible and he and his son replied in affirmative, increasing our hopes ......We started quickly and  covered the initial 100-150 meters fairly quickly as the track was wide and easy. We met two locals alongwith a Team leader from other camp, trout fishing ( the Lake is famous for fishing).A quick query to them also assured us that the Parikrama is doable...As we moved away from the camp and on the curves of the lake, it started getting a bit tricky. The path was now narrower, slanting upwards with loose rocks and moving away from the bank a bit.My footing was unsteady because of flat hard sole but Santosh was extremely comforatble barefoot. I took the cue and removed my chappals...it was difficult initially with the loose cold  stones/ pebbles  hurting the feet but after a while it acted like Accupressure.... What was inviting us was the feeder glaciers of the lakes....the melted water had already caused a big erosion of the mountain visible as Gray below the small white streams at the centre.


The water was crystal clear but the bottom was not visible....Even next to  the  bank it was quite deep....It was calm and extremely Tranquil...Absolute Nirvana....We could have sat there for eternity ,reflecting on the life but ALAS, we were racing against time....Needed to complete the now enormous looking Parikrama before it was dark....


The colour of water was all the possible shades in Asian Paints Colour Book describing Water...Blue, green, emerald, turquoise,aqua blue , acqua marine ...you name it....



Crossing the Stream at far end was also difficult due to depth.....
As we approached the Half way mark , slowly the reality sunk in ....It was going to be difficult....All sort of Doomsday Scenarios started playing in my mind( Surely Santosh must be having similar thoughts)....We were so far away from the camp site,if anything were to happen to one of us or both then? It was slippery crossing the center stream and its small tributaries.....The Giantness of the Glacier above and the Mountain was dwarfing us....Somehow we crossed the streams and went on the other side....Suddenly there was spring in our steps and without a word we covered the majority of second half in quick time... Here , one more challenge awaited  us... Crossing the overflow stream of Gangabal Lake into Nandkol Lake.....The Gradient was steep and water gushing on with great speed....It was difficult to cross it even where it was meeting the lake on somewhat plane ground....The coldness of water was not helping us either. So we were left with no other choice than to follow the stream upwards till the Gangabal lake and hope for a crossing point somewhere near it.... Uphill I spotted one Shepherd and I heaved a sigh of relief when he assured me that there indeed was a stone bridge near the Gangabal Lake.....
Light was fading fast  and we somehow crossed the stream with the help of stone bridge....Once on the other side ie the side of our Camp site our nerves calmed down a bit....From here to camp was a short walk of 20 minutes and the sight of the Camp from top was extremely reassuring.... Hot tomato soup was waiting for us and thankfully, nobody had noticed us missing for a big chunk of time.... We joined the Antakshari and quickly forgotten about our Adventurous Parikrama.....

It was great to go to bed in tents without worrying about time and distance to cover etc.etc....Tomorrow was REST DAY!!!!



This is the Stone Bridge---Our Guide Chouhan Helping the Girls when we went for Sightseeing the next Day


The rest day started with tea as usual but everyone was relaxed...the trek was almost over ...we just needed to climb down few thousand feet ..thats it....

Suman being Suman, called all of us to fall in ( even on a rest day) to decide the plan for the REST DAY...Can you believe this??? Plan the rest day???

Anyways , it was decided to visit the Gangabal lake in the afternoon leaving us with the morning totally free....He threw a googly though, asking if there are any volunteers for preparing lunch or Chai-Pakodas in the afternoon....Nobody came forward for the Rajma-Chawal lunch but to my amazement Santosh offered to make Chai-Pakodas with Me....It reminded me of the Famous dialogue between Amitabh and Dharmendra....Amitabh, after accepting a seemingly improbable Challenge, cheekily asks Dharamda, भाई मैंने कुछ ज्यादा तो नहीं बोला ना ? to which Dharmendra replies full of confidence "पार्टनर अभी बोल दिया तो बोल दिया ..जो होगा देखा जायेगा 

Now making Chai-pakodas was not difficult but to make it for 32 hungry souls with limited resources was going to be interesting.... I asked the main cook to keep the Onions and Potatoes seperate as per his estimate....We were told the time line of 1530-1600 so that we can start at 1630 for Gangabal Lake Sightseeing.....


Anyways, we still had the full morning at our disposal.... I had this long lasting wish of wearing the kashmiri फेरान ever since I saw Chauhan wearing the same.....Now he looked quite Handsome in it and I knew my modelling capabilities but what the Heck....I put it on and got some photos clicked... 




After the photo session Santosh even tried Horse Riding







कल  से हि दीप हम सबके पीछे पडा था  कि हम इस लेक में नहायेंगे … तो बस हम सात आठ लोग आ गये किनारे …. पानी को छुते हि जबरदस्त current  लग गया …  इतना ठंडा पानी  था …… लेकिन हम भी कुछ  कम नही थे … एक बार जो commitment कर ली तो हम अपने आप से भी पुछने वाले नहीं  थे 

ग्रुप के सबसे जानबाझ दो लडको  ने  कुदी मार ली … उनकी हालत देखके हमारे  तो उस ठंडी  में भी पसीने ने छूट  गये …लेकिन फिरभी सब ने अपने अपने तरीके से उस तालाब के बर्फिले ठंडे में और ११५०० फीट कि  उंचाई पे नहाने का काम कर हि डाला  


We were thinking of some team game when suddenly someone suggested  लगोरी ....Now I was totally surprised to find that the game was known to everyone (though under different name) right from Kashmir to Kanyakumari...Literally.

So here we were at 11500 feet in perfect weather on a lush green field, playing Lagori with tennis ball ....It was back to childhood with same competitive spirit. Our team one hands down... but obviously...Just Joking

After warming up with a good Session of Lagori, we played Dodge Ball, Throw ball and many more innovative and improvised games with Football. I must mention here about Hebziba ,a girl from Pune, who showed great enthusiasm and energy throughout. We also made sure that our support staff joined us  so that they don't feel left out...It was high energy stuff....invigorating and refreshing.


In all this excitement we did not realize that its already 1430 hrs and we had an hour left to prepare Pakodas. Myself n Santosh got on with the task of cutting the onions and potatoes. We were able supported by Aneesh Chandran who volunteered quietly. Funnily nobody either knew or believed that we were actually preparing Masala Chai n Pakodas for all.. I prepared the batter .After a quick testing session to confirm its upto the mark, we started the frying session where Santosh was incharge. On the other side we had Masala Chai boiling up with Clove, Elaichi masala.... It was a difficult task because we did not have proper utensils....the kadhai was small and Zara even smaller...लेकिन उसी में तो असली मझा था ….

After we were 90% done with frying, we presented our labor of love for the fellow trekkers to savor....And the reactions we got were so good that it made us feel that the effort was worth it....Within no time the empty dishes came back asking for more Pakodas.... We literally had to keep our portion separate similar to what Amitabh does in सत्ते पे सत्ता ….
It was a successful and satisfying endeavor....the one which once again emphasized the great effort by our kitchen staff throughout the trek in keeping us wel fed...

After the deliciously tasty Pakodas and Masala chai  we embarked ona sightseeing of the Gangabal Lake. Since myself n Santosh had almost touched it yesterday, we quickly took the longer but safer route while suman tried to cross the stream where it met the lake. He needed to put lots of heavy stones to make a bridge...a novel deed which would help the trekkers coming in next batches.


Now Gangabal Lake is Humongous ...Probably the biggest we have seen throughout....Each lake has its own special beauty and charm while there are now familiar similarities like the bowl formed by mountains surrounding the lake at three sides, one mountain glacier feeding the lake, the lake overflowing into streams etc.etc...

Me n Santosh went on the other bank of the lake and savored the calmness ,beauty n Peace while clicking pics.....The Sun playing Hide n Seek through clouds was creating different hues n colours on the lake...Simply Mesmerizing... Here are some clicks
































The Fellow Trekkers on the Other Bank of The Lake












HARMUKH PEAK












 












































 

















While returning from Gangabal , I could click Nandkol Lake in a different angle where it resembles a Heart Shape












This Reminds me of SHOLAY












Throughout the trek I could not get proper Sunrise or Sunset...It always used to be Sunrays falling on the mountains....









HARMUKH Up close and Personal





















Irrespective of whether you are tired or not ,the sight of your camp is the best sight no matter how much natural beauty you have enjoyed.....






















Tonight  was a CAMPFIRE night and Felicitation night for successful completion of trek...We were all looking forward to it...

Before that as a goodwill gesture and to express our gratitude towards our Guide, Horsemen, Kitchen staff etc. we all contributed  some token money to be given to them during Campfire....

We had quite a bit of Surprises in Store for a Campfire Night...

For one, it was actually a Camp Fire with the Locals singing traditional songs, dancing spontaneously around the fire, pulling the trekkers as wel. Many enthusiastically joined...

The sky was full of shining stars....we could spot Satellites , shooting stars n what not...

The Cookie had made a good looking Cake to commemorate successful completion of the trek by the Batch...

During Certificate presentation  all were emotional telling the group what they are taking back in terms of memories... Aashish  being Aashish  was quick to quip " भाई सब लोग इतना कुछ लेके जाएंगे तो यहां  क्या बचेगा ??

 यहां  तक सब ठीक था लेकिन   climax  अभी बाकी था …सबको अपने अपने certificates मिले थे , केक  भी सब खा  चुके थे कि अचानक डॉक्टर साब त्रिष्णा कि तरफ देखते हुवे गुस्से से कुछ बोलने  लगे ।उधर त्रिष्णा भी जोर जोर से बोलने लगी …ये सब  अचानक और जल्दी हो गया कि ग्रुप को चौकने का मौका भी न मिला ....Actually the heated exchange was about तेहजीब और तमीज to be observed by a women regarding her dressing sense....We were shocked, amazed and desperately trying to calm down both of them but with little success...When all of us were thinking कि भाई ये लास्ट में क्या  नजर लाग गयी ट्रेक को ?? When almost everyone was sure of such a nice seven days ending on a sour note, we noticed both Dr. and Trishna smiling and embracing.....Ohh what a relief it was.... Trishna later explain that this is called as " Happening"... its a 2-3 minute skit on current burning topic ...sort of short street play....

Whatever it was... Guys you were Amazing...100% realistic...You could give any damn professional actor run for his money ...Too Good...

With this topic on our lips and full stomach and content mind we returned to our tents for the LAST TIME

Tomorrow we would in the Civilization and sleeping on proper beds after seven nights.....



Tuesday 19 August 2014

Gr8 Lakes of Kashmir----My encounter with Beauty Bliss and Nirvana----Day 6 : Satsar (12000 feet) to Nandkul and Gangbal Twin Lakes (11500 ft) via Jazz Pass (13500 ft)

AGAR FIRDAUS BAR RU-E-ZAMIN AST, HAMI AST O- HAMI AST O- HAMI AST.   

              IF THERE IS HEAVEN ON EARTH, IT IS HERE, IT IS HERE IT IS HERE.

Heart Shaped Nandkol.... Looking from top






Nandkol on the left and Gangbal on right

Five days in wilderness and surely the fatigue was setting in.. After a while on a day's trek, the vast meadows,un-ending valleys, wild flowers, streams were slowly losing their value....We needed something different
We were told that the major climbing was over but while briefing yesterday night about todays trek, Suman dropped a bombshell...Today again we will need to go through the rigors of climbing to 13500 feet for Jazz Pass and then descend to 11500 feet to reach the campsite of  Twin Lakes Nankol and Gangbal . The only incentive ( if one can call it that) was that tomorrow would be a rest day as Weather God had been extremely kind to us , providing tailor made weather all throughout..

To start our days trek , we needed to cross the stream  and circumnavigate the mountain directly in front of us . What made it interesting for me  was that the path consisted of rocks, boulders etc.. A terrain we were more comfortable with than Zig Zags and Switch Backs.



I managed to click  early morning hues of sunrays ...
The weather surprisingly was cloudy and foggy.Looked like in all probability we would be running out of  luck and we would be required to use that poncho we had been so religiously carrying throughout...






We started  after the usual routine of 0530-0630-0700......Surprisingly Santosh, me and the Bangaluru gang of Chinmaya, Parikshita and Rajesh move ahead. Its back to what we have been doing for last five days ....Go up and down till we reach the next set of lakes.




Immediately after the mild n gentle climb to reach the top of a hillock we see the trail full of boulders...actually you can't call it a trail ...its boulder hopping and each one makes his own route...the biggest advantage is that you gain height quickly. 




Also , your attention is on the next boulder and in general continuously in finding the shortest and easiest route which keeps your mind off the strain of climbing...The downside is that the boulder jumping is a bit harsh on the knees....













It was fun finding our way through.... We were taking usual breaks for clicking photoes ,admring the view, soaking in the excellent cloudy ,misty cool weather which was sheltering from the sun while we were ascending...





We reached the top of first ridge fairly quickly and  had one more break cum photo session at a  stone structure resembling an entrance....All of us had goo modelling time... the bengaluru trio for some reason were very much attracted towards my old n out of fashion Ray Ban shades and had their photos clicked with it.....I was wondering..."what's with today's generation...You cannot fathom what will interest them...

By the time we completed the photo shoot others had reached the spot one by one and we dutifully vacated the narrow space for them to rest and moved on.  The Pattern was still the same for one more ridge and we continued gaining altitude quickly.....


At this point only we were joined by one of the guides who for some reason deviated us from the boulders and got us on a pony trail....the moment  realized where we have landed and what laid  ahead of us, I frantically shouted at the gang below in general and Aashish in particular to go up as much as possible before joining the trail, knowing fully wel how much boring and tiring those Zig Zags were going to be...








The view of the valley and the tree line was magnificent from here with,mist coming up from below reminding me of Mahabaleshwar or Harisshchandra Gad or for that matter any Sahyadri trek in monsoon...











So it was back to boring switch backs till we completed ascend to the second ridge...by now the mules n horses had overtaken us inspite of taking a longer route...









After a rigorous ascent of 45 minutes or so, we hit a small snow line and atop was jazh pass.... We (rather our guide Chauhan) had strict warning  not to start the descent till all were atop and group photo was taken...




This  gave us ample time to


 relax, take a nap, click endless photos ,














try to locate twin lakes and our camp site,




Campsite in Orange alongside the Nandkul LAke




 sing songs, listen to some classics on mobile....though I'm not very amenable to music amidst natural surroundings  while trekking ,we had loads of time to kill
Now this was not the first time we were on the snow this trek but i don't know what triggered it but suddenly most of us were throwing snow at each other just like kids.... age group of 11 to 48 and all were making snow balls and hurling at each other with bare hands not remotely concern about snow bite or catching cold... what an amazing 15 minutes we had... Dr. charu and Dr. rupinder were entrusted with the job of  shooting us.....













The cloud cover on the other side of the pass was pretty thick when we had arrived but as the sun progressed ,it was melting bit by bit , giving us the glimpse of the twin lakes, the Harmukh peak and the steep steep descent awaiting us....The hide and seek game of clouds was a challenge for photographers... testing his patience for the perfect shot.....







After an eternity and Chauhan getting extremely restless, we finally had all 32 on top at Jazh Pass .... A good group photo in the form of souvenir later we started our descent.... 


We had absolutely no clue about the distance and the campsite from top was looking deceptively close....The trail  was narrow initially with full of loose rocks n scree.We heard Chauhan grumbling to Suman about how difficult it would have been to take everyone down if it would have rained.....but the weather was near perfect...unbelievably perfect rather with clear sunshine the moment we started descending ....







The twin lAKES WERE STILL NOT CLEARLY VISIBLE..







Nandkol Lake

Gangabal Lake




This trail must be in use very frequently... there are so many vantage points for clicking pictures....Descent was getting a bit boring inspite of the fact that we were taking as many shortcuts and straight line descents as possible...even the heat started getting to us as we were loosing altitude very fast....


After descending for god only knows how many feet, we came across a small stream.....what a relief it was....the water was refreshingly cold and me santosh aashish who were not too far from each other decided to have our packed lunch there itself... we were joind by Aparna mam...When you are with Aashish photo shoot cannot be too far behind...so we had our group click....After filling our water bottles and washing our hands n face as much as possible we hit the dirt trail once again....



After a descent of 15-20 minutes we landed on a small valley and to our utter shock our campsite was on the other side of the small hillock... Enough was enough and we just collapsed on the soft lush green earth ... even with blazing sun on top and no tree to cover us , I had a good power nap with my rucksack as a pillow....what a great feeling it was....नीचे जमिन और उपर आसमान …लहराति हवा और थका भागासा मैं




Campsite




After a nice power nap and realizing that we have to reach the campsite, me n santosh started to climb the last hill for the day and probably the entire trek....


The campsite from top of the hill looked beautiful besides the lake....our fellow trekkers from earlier batch had their rest day today and we shall have ours the next day....